MIL-DTL-14645C
3.5.1 Embroidery. The device(s) and stripe(s) for each class of shoulder mark shall be
Schiffli or Multihead embroidered on the face side of the shell fabric. The embroidery stitches
shall be of the type, color (see DOD Standard Shades for Heraldic Yarns for Embroidery and
Ribbons), length, minimum number, and density specified by the applicable cartoon. Yarn
specified in 3.3.3.1 and 3.3.3.2 shall be used as shown in TABLE I.
TABLE I. Use of embroidery yarns.
TYPE, CLASS
YARN(S) USED
Type I:
all silver metallic 1/
Classes 1 thru 6, 8, and 9
silver metallic 1/ for stripe; gold metallic 2/ for device
Classes 7 & 10
Type II:
white rayon or polyester for stars; gold metallic 2/ for stripe
Classes 1 thru 4
all gold metallic 2/
Classes 7 & 10
silver metallic 1/ for device; gold metallic 2/ for stripe
Classes 5, 6, 8, & 9
silver metallic 1/ & black rayon or polyester for device; gold
Classes 11 thru 14, 16
metallic 2/ for stripe
white rayon or polyester for stars; gold metallic 2/ for eagle
Class 15
device & stripe
all gold metallic 2/
Type III:
silver metallic 1/ for device; graphite blue rayon or polyester
Type IV
for border stitch
1/ Silver metallic embroidery shall have an underlay of white rayon or polyester
2/ Gold metallic embroidery shall have an underlay of goldenlight rayon or polyester
Sufficient base cloth shall be allowed in all directions so shoulder marks can be properly
hemmed and joined together.
3.5.2 Cutting. After insignia have been embroidered, material shall be cut so that the
finished shoulder mark will conform to the measurements specified on the applicable drawing.
3.5.3 Hemming. The hemming shall be executed at the location indicated on the applicable
drawing or cartoon. Each hem shall have a minimum of 10 and a maximum of 12 stitches per
inch using a type 301 stitch of ASTM-D6193. All ends of stitching not caught in the seam shall
be backstitched a minimum of 1/4 inch. Hems shall be 3/8 inch + 1/8 - 0 inch wide, and
stitching shall be located 1/8 inch + 0 - 1/32 inch from the turned edge.
3.5.4 Seam stitching. Seam stitching shall be in accordance with Type 301 of ASTM
D-6193. All ends of stitching shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks shall
be backstitched not less than 1/2 inch at each break. Thread tension shall be maintained
equally for top and bottom thread. Seams shall be sewn with not less than 10 and not more
than 12 stitches per inch. All thread ends shall be trimmed.
3.5.5 Pressing. The finished shoulder mark shall be turned and pressed so that the item
has the shape shown on the applicable drawing.
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